Motor Coupling

Have you made or bought a converted vehicle if so this is for you
Grumpy-b
Posts: 991
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:06 pm

Re: Motor Coupling

Postby Grumpy-b » Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:21 pm

At last some regen!! Two parameters slightly changed and hey presto a much nicer more in control drive. Stll some more changes possible, but Im mindful of the Voltage that the regen generates, need to do a quick calc to make sure all is ok on that front but its looking really good.

Grumpy-b

mattcarr
Posts: 389
Joined: Sat May 12, 2007 2:27 pm
Location: Hampshire

Re: Motor Coupling

Postby mattcarr » Sun Aug 05, 2012 9:11 am

Hi Grumpy- I did meant the 1238 AC controller.

Would it be possible for you to post a picture of the connector your using. I take it the cutris lead has a molex connector on the end, but I would love to see how you are connecting it to the controller - was there a lead in place already for you to plug the lolex into or have you made one to connect to the relevant pins on the controller.

Also, my car is insured with lloyds - I have been with them for years. As long as your car has been re registered as electric fuel type it should be okay. I think this year my insurance was about £240 or so.

Can I ask - what percentage of power is the controller set at - or is it limited to battery amps? Also, can you confirm if your regen current is counted the right way - as in, does the controller know it is current in to the battery and counts it correctly on the BDI display. I oly ask as in my car the regen current still counts the state of charge down and I have been advised that the controller needs a firmware upgrade??

Cheers

Matt

Grumpy-b
Posts: 991
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:06 pm

Re: Motor Coupling

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Aug 05, 2012 10:40 am

The 4 pin Molex is a standard provision on the cable set that is used. It is also the one into which the Curtis gauge on the dash is plugged into. If that hasnt had a parallel connection then you just unplug the gauge and plug in the connecting cable.

The power available to the motor is controlled by the setting in the controller, in a number of ways, including both max % of power and also as part of the throttle settings. The max RMP is also an adjustable parameter which will control max speed.

In the standard form for regen the controller was set to allow 20% of 20% of max power . (Its moderated by a string of settings) SO not a lot. I have gone to 40% on both settings but I want to monitor the voltages created first before I go any higher. Definitely higher I dont wish to damage the batteries.
The simple gauge on the dash shows a single amperage figure and I think it just shows current irrespective of direction of flow. So quite possibly it doesnt take this into account on the BDI. Framkly its such a relatively small amount of power I wouldnt get too concerned about it. I just hate having virtually no regen after driving the Berlingos which are so superb in the way they work.

I insured with Co-op initially then I realised they still thought it was Petrol even though it was registered with DVLA as Electric, therefore it was modified, therfore Co-op dont touch it. Now with NFU at £290. Nice people and I have my Multispace with them as well.
I will add a photo of the connector later
Grumpy-b

mattcarr
Posts: 389
Joined: Sat May 12, 2007 2:27 pm
Location: Hampshire

Re: Motor Coupling

Postby mattcarr » Sun Aug 05, 2012 7:34 pm

Umm, I did mange to borrow the software and the lead - but did not get it to connect to the controller. Did you have the car powered on at all?

Grumpy-b
Posts: 991
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:06 pm

Re: Motor Coupling

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Aug 05, 2012 7:48 pm

Yes the controller has to be powered up.
Turn on laptop get software up and running. Turn on Car , plug in then connect. You need it in OEM mode to see all the settings.

I will be going higher with the settings. it can take a lot more than what I have the battery pack voltage only goes up to 80.9v so its got a long way to go before its going to overcharge.

Grumpy-b


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